In this blog I want to cover what I think are two essential pen tips every pyrographer needs: a writer and a shader.  I have amassed a large selection of pen tips, but I only use a few of them.  The rest are just reminders of wasted money.  Let me explain why I think there are only two essential pen tips, and maybe I can help prevent you from buying tips you don’t need.   

Before I get going, I want to mention that pen tip, tip, and nib all refer to the same thing; the part of the metal that comes into contact with the board.

I have a video version of this information.  To watch, click on the thumbnail image to the left, or click on this link:  https://youtu.be/rZQkTHobQPk

This photo shows most of my pen tip collection.  Yes, I have quite a few of them, but most of them I don’t use.  

Of the many pen tips I own, there are only two I consider essential (circled in yellow).   The rest I could live without.

Looking at the large variety of pen tips manufacturers offer, it’s easy to assume that they all do something different.  I know I used to think this.  

In fact, I bought almost every pen tip that Colwood makes in the hopes of finding that perfect pen tip.  What I’ve discovered is that the majority of the tips don’t work well for my style of pyrography.

That’s because the majority of the pen tips are designed for wood carvers!   Something I wish I had known when I first started out.

Wood carvers work with 3D objects, so their needs can be very different than a pyrography artist who works on a flat surface. 

Keep in mind that I’m not a carver, so I have very little knowledge on how carvers create their artwork.  I’m of the understanding that many carvers use  different pen tips to create textures.   Whereas, I use different burn strokes to create textures, so I can use just one shader to accomplish everything I need to do.

Sometimes a carver needs nibs with longer metal leads so the nib can reach tight or recessed areas on the carving.   This is not something I have to worry about since I work with flat boards.

If you’ve watched a few of my tutorials, then you might know that I have 4 basic burn strokes:  uniform, pull-away, circular motion, and zigzags.  

I can use the basic burn strokes alone or layer them up to create numerous different textures. 

The most important thing is that any shader can be used for this!

I choose a particular pen tip based on its size. 

For example, if I’m working on something small and highly detailed, I will grab a small shader or a writer pen tip.  

Large background work I use the largest shader as I own.

Another way to think of this is to compare pen tips to paint brushes.  

The tiny paintbrush on the right can be used to paint in a large background, but the one on the left will make the process easier and quicker.   

ESSENTIAL PEN TIPS

Back to the essential pen tips that I think you should own.    

WRITER PEN TIP

For the writer pen tip, I would choose is Colwood’s standard C writer pen tip because of its versatility.  The shape of this nib is something I’ve seen with every brand of wire tip burners.

I use the writer for burning in trace lines, and working in tight corners where it’s hard to get a shader into.   I also use writers to do really fine (small) detail work like burning the pupils in eyes.

What I like about this pen tip is that you can hold is so the narrow edge is in contact with the wood to produce thin lines. 

I’m holding the pen at a steep angle, so a very thin line is produced.   To put it another way, the nib is being held so that it is vertical or straight up from the board.  If you prefer percentages, the nib is being held at a 90 degree angle from the board.

Reducing the angle the pen is held at means that more of the metal is in contact with the wood, so a thicker line is produced.   

This image shows several lines that have been created by gradually decreasing the angle the pen tip is held at. 

To put this another way, the nib becomes less vertical and more horizontal or parallel to the board.   

I think this composite image will help you visualize what I’m trying to explain.   

The nib on the left is being held vertical or straight up and down compared to the board.  I would call this a 90 degree angle.  This puts very little metal in contact with the board, so the line is thinner.   

The nib on the right is being more horizontal, or less of an angle to the board.  I would call this a 45 degree angle.  Holding the pen this way puts more metal in contact with the board, so the lines become thicker.

Switching from the narrow to the wide side of the nib put even more metal in contact with the wood, so you can get even wider burn strokes. 

The same thing can be done with burning dots.  The narrow side edge will produce very tiny dots, and the wider rounded end will produce larger dots. 

As you can see, a standard writer tip can produce a fairly good range of lines and dots.  With some effort and a little practice, I’m sure that a greater variety can be created, but this gives you an idea. 

Here’s a link to Colwood’s standard writer nib: https://woodburning.com/collections/replaceable-tips-rt/products/rt-c

Colwood does make a fixed tip version.  The fixed tip means that the nib is permanently attached to the handset.  Is this better than a replaceable style?  Some say yes.  I haven’t noticed a difference.   Here’s a link to the fixed tip:  https://woodburning.com/collections/fixed-tips-ft/products/copy-of-ft-c-076

ALTERNATE WRITER PEN TIP

Micro writer nibs can be very useful, but they are not as versatile as a standard writer.    This image shows Colwood’s standard C writer to the left of the black bar, and two versions of their micro writer to the right.

Of the micro writers, the right one is their old style, and they no longer make it.  I own this style and still use it, so you may see it in my tutorials from time to time.  This pen tip isn’t very strong.  I’ve bent my when I used a little too much force when I was first learning to burn.   I’ve since learned that you should always use a light handpress.     The micro writer on the left is the style they currently make.  This one is much studier than the old version. 

Both the old and new style of micro writer produce the same burn results.

Like the C writer, you can alter the width of the burn lines by increasing or decreasing the angle you hold the pen tip at.  At some point you can only hold the nib so far from the board.   

Since this style of writer has such a small tip, the range of line widths isn’t as good as a standard writer.

Here is Colwood’s current style of micro writer nib.  Despite looking much different from the old style, the burn results are the same. 

As I said before, the old style isn’t as sturdy as the new one.   

Here’s a link to Colwood’s micro writer:  https://woodburning.com/products/rt-micro-c-mc?_pos=1&_sid=b2f4dc547&_ss=r

Here’s the fixed tip version:  https://woodburning.com/products/copy-of-ft-mc-micro-writing?_pos=2&_sid=b2f4dc547&_ss=r

Here’s a composite photo showing the results from all three nibs.

The standard writer nib creates a larger variety of line widths and dot sizes

Plus, the larger and more rounded shape of the standard tip means it is less likely to sink down into the wood surface

It is harder to get the line width variety with a micro writer that you can with a standard writer.  I like to use micro writer when I’m working in really small areas.   

Micro writers are not something I commonly see.  I have transformed a standard writer into a micro writer.  It wasn’t that difficult to do.  I have a short video that demonstrates how to do this:  https://youtube.com/shorts/6SvPPAj0cVA

SHADER PEN TIP

For the shader, I would choose Colwood’s D shader.  I’m picking this particular shader because of its versatility.   Unfortunately, this is a shape that I’ve only seen in Colwood nibs.  Don’t worry, I’ll provide a very common alternative.

What makes this nib so versatile, is that it has 4 different edges.  For some reason I only use 3 of them (2-4).  Mostly I use the front tip or toe of the shader, this is marked with green arrow number 3.     I use the sides when I want really wide burn strokes that will fill in an area quicker.

Let’s start with the toe or tip of the nib.

You can create extremely thin lines with this shader.  This is done by holding the pen at a steep angle, so that only the razor edge of the tip is in contact with the wood. 

To put this another way, the nib is almost vertical to the board.  Very similar to what was done with the writer nib.

Decrease the angle you hold the pen tip, and you increase the width of the lines or burn strokes created.  Again, the same thing that was done with the writer nibs.

The upper left side (yellow arrow number 2) of the D shader can produce a much thicker line than the front or toe of the shader.  This is my second most used side of this shader.

You can also use the long edge of the right side (blue arrow number 4) to produce really wide burn strokes. 

I will admit that it is a bit tougher to get consistent results with this side because of the way I bent the nib.   To use this side I have to push the pen tip up instead of pulling it down.   

It is much easier to get consistent smooth results if you pull the pen tip down.

Here’s a photo showing the different sized burn strokes I created with the D shader.  Again, I know that a wider variety can be created, but this gives you a good idea of what it is capable of. 

Here’s a link to the D shader:   https://woodburning.com/collections/replaceable-tips-rt/products/rt-d

Here’s the fixed tip version:  https://woodburning.com/collections/fixed-tips-ft/products/copy-of-ft-d-1-4

ALTERNATE SHADER

If Colwood’s D shader is not an option for you, then I’d recommend getting something that looks like Colwood’s J shader.  This is another style or shape of this nib that I’ve seen with every brand of wire tip burners.  

The photo shows both the J and mini J shader.   The mini J is the nib on the left.

This shader works just like and flat shader.  Super thin lines are created by holding it at a steep angle, so that only the razor edge of the shader is touching the wood.

Decrease the angle you hold the tip at, the width of the line or burn stroke increases.  

Like many shaders, you can use the front or toe of the shader, or you can use the side.  Generally, if I’m using the side of the shader, I’m trying to produce wide burn strokes that will fill an area with color quicker.   

This shader cannot produce as wide of lines as Colwood’s D shader, but that is really the one difference between the two.  I could use either shader to create my artwork. 

Here’s a link to Colwood’s J shader:  https://woodburning.com/collections/replaceable-tips-rt/products/rt-j-1-8

Here’s the fixed tip version:  https://woodburning.com/collections/fixed-tips-ft/products/copy-of-ft-j-1-8-tight-round

FLAT VS BENT

Depending on where you buy your shaders from, they may arrive flat.  Or maybe I should say straight.   This photo shows a flat shader on the left, and two bent shaders on the middle and on the right.

I personally think that shaders are easier to use if they are bent at a 45-degree angle.   The middle shader I bent myself.  I paid a fee to have Colwood bend the shader on the right.   

Notice how the one I bent was done where the nib connects to the lead wires.  Whereas Colwood bends the lead wires.   Colwood’s method is probably sturdier than what I did, but I don’t care for the way Colwood bends nibs.

Some manufacturers offer bent tips and others don’t

For example, Optima offers a number of their pen tips in both the straight and bent format. 

In this photo the 3rd and 5th pen tips are bent versions of the nibs appearing above it.   

What I like about Optima is that they charge the same price regardless of whether the pen tip is bent or not.

Colwood charges a fee to bend a tip.

What I don’t like is that Colwood charges a fee to bend their tips.   When I checked on December 4th, 2021, Colwood charged $4.45 dollars to bend a nib!  Maybe I’m just a cheap tightwad, but that’s seems like a lot of money just to bend the tip.

I should mention that I only bend my shader pen tips.  I do not bend writers, skews, ball tips, or specialty tips.

To bend a tip, I use pliers to grip the tip just where the two wire leads end.

Then I hold onto the two wire leads and very gently bend the tip.   

Be aware that if you bend your own tips, you are avoiding any warranty that the tips may have! 

Let me repeat that information.

If you bend your own tips, you are avoiding any warranty that the tips may have!   I don’t want someone bending their own pen tip, and then getting mad at me because they voided the manufacturer’s warranty.   

I do have a short video that demonstrates how I bend a shader.  Here’s a link to that video:  https://youtube.com/shorts/wVAY2566TjE

FLAT vs ROUNDED SHADERS

The two shaders I talked about are considered flat shaders.  Not every artist is fond of these type of shaders.  One said that she hated them because the are like knives that slice into the wood surface.   

I’ve had several artists tell me that they love spoon shaders.  These type of shaders have edges that curve up.  This prevents the edges from digging into the wood surface.

Others have told me they love using ball tips. 

The reason people like the spoon and ball shaders is because their rounded shape are less likely to snag on the wood.  To put it another way, they glide over the surface of the wood easier than flat shaders do.    

I have tried both the spoon and ball tips for shading, but I never felt comfortable with either style. 

The reason was that I wasn’t 100% sure exactly where I was burning or how close to the edge of the object I was getting. 

The point is that we are all different, so if you hate the shader you are using try another.  Eventually you’ll find the perfect shader for you.

When you are first learning, try to stick with just one shader.

The reason is that you will learn the mechanics of that shader.  You will discover things like how to hold it to get different burn widths, and what temperatures it performs best at for the wood you’re burning on, etc.  

The less time you spend thinking about the mechanics of the shader, the more time you can concentrate on burning. 

Non-Essential Pen Tips

If you are ready to add to your pen tip collection, there are 2 tips I would recommend getting and a 3rd that many find useful.

First, get as large of a shader as you can.  Large shaders are very handy for quickly filling in backgrounds.  

This image shows the J shader compared to Colwood’s E shader.  The E shader is also called a spade or spear shader, and it is the largest shader I own.   

Spear shaders are nice because the point will allow you to do fine work.  

My second recommendation is to get a skew tip.  They come in different sizes, and are wonderful for burning straight lines.

I prefer the tip on the right because it has a thinner edge to it.   Colwood calls this their rounded heel.  

This photo shows how thin the lines can be.

This photo shows a steampunk fish I did.  On the mouth I created a rough crosshatch texture using a skew.  This pen tip has a very thin edge, so it sinks down into the surface of the wood very easily.   To create the texture, I set my burner on a very low heat setting.   The resulting burn is very pale.  In fact, it’s so pale that it is tough to see.   I burn burn crosshatch lines into the wood, and then burn over the lines shader to reveal the texture.   

Quite truthfully, you could use a sharp knife, like an X-acto, to get the same results.   

The last nib I’d recommend is a ball pen tip.  I will admit that I don’t use it often.  Generally my use of a ball tip is limited to mandala art and stippling.   I like to stipple over animal noses to give them as slightly bumpy texture.   

The other time I tend to use a ball tip is when I’m burning on leather.  The ball tip tends to glide better than a writer, so I often use a ball tip instead of a writer.

Colwood sells 3 different sized ball tips; small (b1), medium (b2), and large (b3).  B1 has a .0394″ diameter, B2 .0625″ diameter, and B3 .09375″ diameter.    You can buy them individually or in a set.  

The only ones I’ve used are B2 and B3. The size of dot created by B1 can easily be replicated with a writer pen tip. 

B2 can also be replicated with a writer, but if it’s important that the dots all be the same size then the ball tip is a better choice.   As for B3, the large ball tip, I don’t have a writer pen tip that can create that large of a dot size.   

MANUFACTURER WEBSITES

I’d like to walk you through a few of the manufacturers websites, and tell you what I’d look for when considering a shader pen tip.  First off, you’re looking for pen tips that can be used for flat work pyrography.   I base the decision two things.   1) The look of the shader.  2) The manufacturer’s descriptions and recommendations for their pen tips.         

Optima’s website is very straightforward.  Begin by clicking on the link in the left box called pen styles. 

Here’s a link to their site:  https://www.carvertools.com/

Now you will see a list of their pen tips. 

The list features a picture of the pen tip on the left. 

The center column contains the name and description of the pen tip.  

The far-right column lists the recommended application for the pen tip, which is helpful. 

Of the 7 pen tips in this list, only 3 are listed as suitable for flatwork.  I marked the 3 with blue stars. 

Keep in mind that this isn’t a complete list, but it gives you an idea of how many pen tips are designed for wood carvers. 

I will add that the spear point (pen #5) can be used as a shader.  I own it and find it works just fine.  

I won’t get into how you order pen tips from Optima.  That isn’t the point of this, but I will say that I really disliked their ordering system. 

Razertip has an easy to navigate site too.  Click on the pyrography tip shapes link on the left. 

Here’s a link to their site:  https://www.razertip.com/

Next, there is a screen groups the pen tips by type. 

They have a group for their shaders. 

Click on the shaders icon and you can see all of the pen tips Razortip recommends for flatwork shading.  

What I don’t like about Razortip’s site is the lack of one place to view all of the pen tips. 

For example, I found a large spear pen tip that might work as a shader under the cutting tips.  

Colwood’s website starts out ok, but quickly becomes a pain.  Begin by click on the “tips” link to expand the menu. 

Here’s a link to their website:  https://woodburning.com/

Then you have to select the style of pen tip you prefer: fixed or replaceable. 

Fixed tips mean that the nib is permanently mounted to a handset. 

Replaceable means you just get the nib.  The handset is a separate item.   You can have 1 handset and just switch out pen tips.     

Which is a better system?  I couldn’t tell you.  I bought a fixed tip shader and I didn’t notice a performance different.  From what I’ve read, the fixed tips are supposed to be more reliable and produce a more constant output.   

Maybe if you’re using the same pen tip for hours and hours a day this might be an important issue.  For me it’s not.

I clicked on the replaceable option and was presented with a grid showing pictures of their pen tips.  Below each picture is the name of the pen tip and the price.  You have to click on an image in the grid to get more information on that particular pen tip.

For example, I clicked on fixed tip A.

Reading through the description on this particular pen tip states:  Largest of the rounded tips and is used for concave areas, such as under the neck and where the leg joins the body.  The tip style will follow concave surfaces without digging into the wood.

After reading that I can say with certainty that this pen tip is designed for wood carvers. 

What is not very clear, is if the Colwood considers the pen tip to be suitable for flatwork. 

The information at the bottom (circled in red) is stock verbiage that appears on almost every single pen.  It basically says that you can opt to have the pen tip polished and / or bent.  Then it explains what each option will do.   Polishing reduces drag and makes it easier to clean the tip.  Bending make it easier to shade without putting your hand in an awkward position.   

That clears up all of my questions.  Not.    

Click on Colwood’s “classroom” tab (found at the top of their menu bar), and a list of pdf’s appear (blue box). 

There is a “tip usage” pdf file.

This file vaguely hints that rounded tips can be used on flat surfaces.   The exact verbiage is “by rolling the pen while burning you can create smooth curved lines on flat surfaces.”   

Continue reading down to the tip styles paragraph, and states that the A, D, and J shader are considered round shaders.   

If you cannot guess, I’m not overly impressed with Colwood’s website.  I like their burner well enough.  Just remember that I haven’t tried any other brand, so I have nothing to compare it to.  I’m not willing to waste money trying other brands when this one is working just fine.   

One day I might purchase some pen tips from other companies to see if there is a difference.

The Brenn-Peter burner is another brand I see mentioned a lot.  https://www.brennpeter.com/

Their pictures of the burners are terrible.  They are all similar to this one, and It’s hard to tell what sort of pen tips come with the burner.  The description doesn’t provide any useful information in that regard. 

I found an alternate picture of the same burner on another website.  While the pen tips might be a touch easier to see, this site provided even less information than Brenn-Peters did.

Looking at this photo, I can see several flat shaders that are very similar to what I use.

Some of you have more generic burners.  A few of you love to send me pictures of some generic burner and want to know if I think it’s decent. 

I cannot answer that question.  All I can say is that if it has a temperature control, it should work just fine.   You’d have to do some research like reading reviews to help answer questions you may have on it.  It seems like just about every burner on the market has YouTube reviews on it.

If your generic burner doesn’t have a flat shader in it, there are numerous sets available on Amazon that do. 

The sets aren’t very expensive, but I can’t tell you how good the sets are.  Here’s an affiliate link to a set on Amazon:  https://amzn.to/3E1fY7K

IN CONCLUSION

This photo shows all of the pen tips I use enclosed in colored frames. 

The two yellow ovals are the essential pen tips. 

The orange frame contains the shaders and micro writer that I use on a semi-regular basis. 

The red frame contains the ball tips and the skew that I use on rare occasion.  

Of the 33 pen tips shown, I’ve only circled 12 of them; less than half.   I could buy a new burner with the money I’ve spent on pen tips I don’t use! 

Buying a bunch of pen tips you don’t need is what I’m trying to keep you from doing.

That is it for this blog.  I hope this blog will help you pick pen tips and answer some basic questions about the pen tips.  It is really important to keep in mind that everyone is different.  The shader that works best for you might not be the same one that works best for me.  Don’t be afraid to experiment with your pen tips. 

Brenda

Jan 4, 2022

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