Jingle Bells Christmas Postcard 3 Pyrography Tutorial wood burning

JINGLE BELLS CHRISTMAS POSTCARD 3 PYROGRAPHY TUTORIAL wood burning

Some of you are probably thinking it is summer, so what the heck is Brenda doing posting a Christmas themed tutorial?!   Well Christmas in July is gaining in popularity and it’s never too early to start working on homemade gifts for the holidays, so I created Jingle Bells, the third installment of my Christmas Postcard series.  Ok, another reason is that I was so excited at how realistic the ‘metal’ bells turned out that I couldn’t wait to share it with you.  If I accomplish my goal, you will be as amazed as I was at how easy it is to create the look of metal.   This tutorial blog will explain how to create the Jingle Bells pyrography art.

Click on the icon to the Left to watch a timelapse YouTube video. 

Click on the icon to the right to watch a tutorial youtube video. 

 

Reader submitted art at the bottom of this blog.

SKILL LEVEL:  1

MATERIALS NEEDED:  

  • Writing tip
  • Shading tip
  • 4 x 6 (10.2 x 15.2 cm) piece of craft plywood
  • Pattern (enlarge or shrink as needed)  Jingle Bells pattern

STEP 1 – PREP THE WOOD

Make sure to prep the wood by sanding the surface with 220 grit sanding paper.  Yes, I did this even though I used a store bought piece of die-cut plywood because I want the surface to be as smooth as possible.  Smoother surfaces enables better detail and reduced drag on the pen tip.  

And since this is a postcard, I put a message on the back of the postcard, so I sand the back of the wood too.  Heck I even sanded the sides of the wood to make sure everything was smooth.  For more information about prepping the wood and different types of wood I’ve burned on read this blog:   Prepping Wood   

   

STEP 2 – TRANSFER PATTERN TO WOOD

Check trace lines for accuracy

I use the tracing method to transfer all my patterns to my projects.  It’s cheap, easy, and gives me control on what I want to include.  Print off your pattern on lightweight paper (standard copier paper is perfect), coat the back of the pattern with a graphite pencil (I use one in the B ranges), place pattern on wood, tape in place, trace over pattern with a sharp pencil, remove pattern, and you’re ready to burn.

 

STEP 3 – BURN THE OUTLINE

Pattern traced in and residual graphite erased

With the writing pen tip on medium low, lightly burn in the trace lines.  After you have burned in the trace lines, rub over the surface with a pencil eraser to remove any residual graphite. 

Burning the trace lines

 

In this photo I’m burning in the trace lines.  Notice that I’m not burning them in very dark.  The snowflakes in the background remain pale and I didn’t do anything further with them after this step was done.

 

 

STEP 4 – THE BELLS

Close up of Right Bell

We first work on the right jingle bell.  The key to the metallic look is extreme contrast, so looking at the bell you can see there are very dark streaks or bands next to super pale bands.   Once I was done I ended up using 4 hues of brown to color the bell; dark brown, brown, tan, ultra-pale tan.  

 

 

Dark bands burned in

DARK BROWN.   The dark bands are a very dark brown color that is almost black.  There are 4 dark bands, the left top dome, and the right thin edge of the hanging loop that all get burned darkly.

 

 

Pattern colored to indicate Dark Brown areas

The right thin edge of the hanging loop is pointed out with a red arrow and the rest of the areas are peach brownish color in this photo.  

I’d have to say that I have a whole new appreciation for those who can do that photo painting thing.  It is super tough to keep neat edges!

Edging the first dark band

Starting on the first band located on the right side of the bell, edge it by burning along all of the outer area of the band with the shading pen tip.     The purpose of this is to make sure the edges stay crisp and sharp.  When it’s time to fill in the area you don’t have to burn right up to the edge, so it makes it easier to fill in.

 

It is VERY import to keep the pen tip in optimal position as you do this, so your borders stay crisp and clean.  You do not want fuzzy lines on the bell as that won’t convey the look of metal.

OPTIMAL PEN TIP PLACEMENT – –

Optimal Pen Tip position

NOTICE the placement of the pen tip in this photo; I call this Optimal Pen Tip Placement.

The end of the pen tip is on the inside edge of the bell.  Positioning the pen tip this way ensures that I am only burning on the bell and not on the background.  Plus, keeping the end of the pen tip this way will make sure that the edge of the bell has a very crisp clean line. 

Optimal pen tip position ensures that you are burning where you INTEND to burn and that your borders are crisp/clean.

 

Band edged, so now filling it in with a dark brown color

 

 

After edging the band fill it in with a uniform dark brown color.

 

 

 

 

Rim line pointed out

 

 

Leave a super thin line along the lip where the bell flares out that is lighter in color than the dark brown.  I marked the thin line with a red arrow. 

 

 

Upper side of thin line edged

For me I’ve found the easiest way to create the pale thin line is to edge along either side of them.  So in this picture you can see that I edged just above where I want the thin pale line to be.

 

Lower side of the thin line edged

 

 

 

In this photo I’m edging below the thin line and filling in that small dark section on the rim.

 

 

 

 

Speaking of filling in, use whatever pen motion is comfortable for you.  The only goal is to achieve a mostly uniform color with crisp edges.  For me I tend to use uniform strokes near the ends of the band (top / bottom) and a small circular motions for the rest of the area.  I wrote a tutorial about the different ways that I use the shading tip, so for more information about uniform strokes, circular motions, etc. are please read the blog Using the Shader as it goes into a lot more detail about it.  

Dark line on hanging loop

 

Also burn a dark line along the edge of the hanging loop at the top of the bell.

 

 

 

 

Burn bell dome

While you’re in the area, burn the left top of the bell.  Yes, the picture shows I burned more than just the left side.  The dark brown lightens to brown as it reaches the right side.  You can do that now or wait until I discuss the brown bands.

 

Continued work on the dark brown bands

 

Continued work on the dark bands.

 

 

 

 

 

Burning the last band

 

 

Working on the last dark band.

 

 

 

 

 

Brown band burned in

The Brown Bands.  The next bands to burn are the brown bands.  The brown bands are about half the darkness of the dark brown bands. 

 

 

 

Brown bands colored on the pattern

 

 

The brown bands are painted yellow on this photo of the pattern.

 

 

 

 

 

Edging a brown band

Again edge the brown bands, but this is only needed on edges touching an unburned band.  

In this photo the band I’m working doesn’t need edging on the side that touches the dark brown band.

   

Continued work on the brown bands

 

Continued work on the band and notice that I also burned in the right side of the dome top on the bell.   Yes, I also burned the tan spot on the hanging loop.  Again you can do that now or wait.

Working on the last brown band

 

 

 

 

Working on the last brown band.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tan bands burned in

The Tan Bands.  The tan bands are approximately half as dark as the brown bands.

 

 

 

 

 

Tan bands colored on the pattern

 

 

The light yellow bands on this photo of the pattern are the location of the tan bands.  Looking at the color guide, notice that some of the ‘bands’ are nothing more than thin lines along the right side of the pale bands.

 

 

 

Filling in a tan band

Fill in the bands.  There is no need to edge the bands, but don’t forget to keep the thin line along the top of the rim even lighter than the tan color.  This thin pale line helps give shape to the bell.

Working on the band that fades away

 

 

 

 

With this band I’m working on in the photo, the bottom portion is burned in and then it fades away as it reaches the pale band/line above it.    Burn a thin tan line along the right side of the pale band.

 

 

Burn the rim

 

The last area to burn a tan shade is the area on the rim near the right edge.  Also burn a thin tan line along the right side of the pale band above this spot.

 

 

 

 

Close up of Right Bell

The Pale Bands.  The pale bands have hardly any color to them. 

 

 

 

 

 

Lightly burning over the pale bands

 

 

 

Lightly burn over the pale bands and add a touch more color along the edges and bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

Close up of the Left Bell

 

With the right bell done we’ll work on the left bell.  This one shows a bit of the underside of the bell, so it needs a little more work, but nothing you can’t handle. 

The top portion of the bell is almost identical to the Right bell, so my explanation for that area will be brief.

 

Dark Brown Bands burned in

The Dark Brown Bands.  First burn in the dark bands and like the left bell, the dark bands/lines are very dark brown in color to the point they are almost black.   Let me say now that I added a dark band later as I felt I didn’t have enough contrast, so initial pictures won’t show all of the dark brown bands the final art has.

Dark brown bands colored in

 

The peach colored bands on this pattern photo indicate the location of the dark brown bands.

 

 

 

 

Burning the dark brown bands

 

 

Edge and fill in the dark brown bands.  Some of the bands are nothing more than thick lines, so those don’t need to be edged first.

 

 

Brown bands burned in

 

 

The Brown Bands.  Next burn in the brown bands and make the color about half the intensity of the dark bands.

 

 

 

Brown bands indicated with yellow on pattern

 

 

 

The yellow bands on this pattern photo indicate the location of the tan bands.

 

 

 

 

 

Working the right side of the bell

 

Start with the right side of the bell and make sure to burn in the two roundish areas on the rim.

 

 

Working on the next band

 

 

Working on the next band.

 

 

 

 

Working on the last brown band

 

 

Burn the last band and, just like we did with the left bell, edge the band before filling it in.

 

 

 

 

 

Tan bands burned in

 

The Tan Bands.  Burn the tan bands a color that is much lighter than the brown color.  The tan bands are all located on the right side of the bell.

 

 

 

Tan bands colored in on the pattern

 

The light yellow bands on this pattern photo indicate the location of the tan bands.

 

 

 

 

 

Filling in the band after edging the left side of it

 

 

 

Edge and burn in the tan bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pale bands done

The Super Pale Band.  The last thing to do is burn the pale band and the rim highlight.  The pale band is extremely pale in color.

 

 

 

 

Lightly burn over the pale areas

 

Both the band and the rim get a touch of color and the edges of both areas receive more color than the center.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Burn a line along the inside rim

 

The first step with the inside of the bell is to edge along the upper lip of the rim.

 

 

 

 

Darkly burn the right side of the rim

 

Next darkly burn along the right side of the rim and fade the color to tan when you get to the bell clapper.

 

 

 

 

 

Burn the rest of the rim

 

Burn the rest of the rim a tan color and make the left side of the rim slightly darker just before you reach the ribbon.

 

 

 

Progress photo

 

 

 

Here’s a progress photo.

 

 

 

 

Burn around the clapper

 

 

Now burn the right inside part of the bell a tan color, but avoid burning on the clapper.

 

 

 

Fade the color at the reflected highlight area

Let the color fade just past the clapper.   On the rim there is a bright highlight (marked with red arrow) and the inside of the bell will be lighter in the same general area (marked with black arrow) to give the indication that light is hitting there too.  

 

Burn a line on clapper

 

Burn a dark line separating the round clapper from the shaft it’s attached to.

 

 

Burn the clapper

 

 

Burn the rest of the clapper a tan color, but keep it a lighter color than the bell wall behind it.

 

 

 

Burn the left side of the bell and let it fade as you reach the light reflection spot

 

 

Now burn the left side of the bell a tan color that fades as it nears the light reflection spot.

 

 

 

 

Progress photo

Here is a progress photo showing both bells.  Time to critically compare them.  What do you think? 

I liked the right bell, but felt the left one didn’t have the same impact.  What it needed was more contrast.

 

Adding a dark brown band for contrast

 

Here I’m adding that dark brown band.   Yes, I put this band on the pattern.

 

 

 

 

Adding more contrast

 

 

I also darkened up the inside a touch more and put a dark line at the bottom of the clapper to help it stand out.

 

 

 

 

Below are the before and after pictures of the right jingle bell for easier comparison.

Before the added contrast
Close up of the Left Bell

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the increased contrast the bell looks a lot more metallic.

 

 

STEP 5 –THE BOW

Close Up of the bow

Now we’ll burn the bow.

 

 

 

Close up of the bow center

 

 

First start with the center of the bow.

 

 

 

 

 

Edge and darkly burn the bottom

 

Edge the bottom of the bow center a dark brown black color and extend the color about ¼ of the way up.

 

 

 

Burn in rest of bow center

 

Fill in the rest of the bow center a brown color and burn the right and left edges a bit darker.

 

 

 

Close up of the left tail

Next burn the left tail.

 

 

 

 

Edge along the right side

First burn along the right edge of the tail to a brown color.  Make sure to keep the color slightly paler than the dark brown, so it is easier to tell where one end and the other begins.

 

 

Fill in bow

 

 

 

Next fill in the rest of the loop a brown color, but remember to keep a thin line along the right edge paler (marked with a red arrow).

 

 

 

Highlight and edge marked

 

This photo points out the right edge and bend area.

 

 

 

 

Close up of left Bow Loop

 

Now it’s time for the left loop on the bow.

 

 

edge bow and burn along crease lines

 

 

 

First edge the loop and darkly burn along the crease lines.

 

 

 

Darkly burn the end of the loop

 

Darkly burn the end of the bow loop.  I used pull-away strokes for this, so the stroke started on the end of the loop and I pulled it away from the end.  I kept the strokes short.

 

Fill In the bow

 

 

Fill in the rest of the loop a brown color.

 

 

 

 

Center is slightly paler

 

 

 

Leave a slightly paler spot near the center top of the loop.

 

 

 

 

 

Close up of the Right tail

Time to do the right tail.

 

 

 

 

Darkly edge

 

 

Darkly edge the tail and darkly burn where the tail starts (touches the bell).

 

 

Fill in rest of tail

 

 

Fill in the rest of the tail a brown color and leave the bend spot slightly lighter.

 

 

 

Close up of right Bow Loop

Lastly it’s time to burn the right loop on the bow.

 

 

 

 

Edge and burn end dark brown

 

 

Again edge the loop and burn the end of the bow a dark brown color.

 

 

 

 

 

Darkly burn the crease lines

 

 

Burn darkly along the crease lines and fill the rest of the area a brown color.

 

 

 

 

Fill in rest of bow

 

 

Continue to burn the rest of the loop a brown color, but leave the center top of the loop slightly paler in color.

 

 

 

STEP 6 –  THE GARLAND

Close up of beaded Garland

Now we’ll burn the beaded garland.

 

 

Edge the long oval beads

 

First burn a dark brown line along the edges of the oval beads.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Burn a dark thick band around the beads

 

Burn a dark brown band along the edges.

Fill in rest of bead a brown color

 

 

 

 

Fill in the rest of the bead a brown color.

 

 

 

 

Burn bottom half of small circular beads

 

Burn the bottom half of the small circular beads a dark brown color.  This is another area I used short pull-away strokes on.

 

 

 

 

 

Burn the top half of the beads

 

Burn the top half of the small circular beads a dark brown color.

 

Lightly burn the center of the bead

 

Lightly burn the center of the beads a tan color.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Burn the bottom of the larger round beads

Burn the bottom half of the larger round beads a dark brown color.

 

 

 

 

 

Continued work on the bottom portion of the beads

 

 

 

 

Continued work burning the bottom half of the round beads.

 

 

Burn the top half of the round beads

Next rotate the wood and burn the top half of the round beads a dark brown color and burn the center of the bead a tan color as you work your way across the garland.

 

Keep the centers aligned with the garland direction

 

Notice how I’m keeping the tan center of the beads in line with how the garland hangs. 

 

 

 

 

Finishing up

 

 

 

 

Almost done with the garland.

 

STEP 7 – EXTRA SNOWFLAKES (Optional)

adding some snowflakes

I decided I wanted a few more pale snowflakes in the background.  So I traced them on wood from the pattern and lightly burned them in.  This is a completely optional step.

adding more snowflakes

 

 

Continued work adding pale snowflakes.

 

 

STEP 8 – THE MESSAGE

Burning in lines

Flip the postcard over, draw a couple of lines, burn them in, and then write your message. 

Back of postcard

 

STEP 9 – OPTIONAL ENHANCEMENTS

Even though I’m giving you the instructions on how I create my artwork, I strongly encourage you to let your creative side out and make the artwork uniquely you.  With that in mind, I’m going to mention some ideas that you can use, or not, to customize your postcard.

  • Add glitter. Christmas is always better with some sparkle.  Carefully paint a thin coat of glue (like Elmer’s) over the snowflakes and add some glitter.  You can also add some glitter the edges of the post card.
  • Use colored pencils to give the postcard some color. Color the bow, or add a touch of yellow to the bells.  Little things to make the art pop.  Just don’t burn over the colored pencil as the heat will melt it and cause it to spread.
  • Drill a couple of tiny holes at the top (one each end) and hang your postcard like an ornament.
  • Make a keepsake by putting the year on the front of the postcard.
  • Create a garland by making several postcards and stringing them together.

IN CONCLUSION

This concludes the Jingle Bells tutorial.  I really love how the bells turned out and I felt that the metallic look wasn’t hard to create.   Pyrography is a wonderful medium for creating the look of gold metal.    While I’m not super thrilled with how my bow turned out, I do think that the overall look is pleasing.  Considering that this didn’t take me very long to do, I’m actually amazed at how well it did turn out.  Please don’t take my next comment as bragging because that’s not my intent, but I’m just amazed at the jingle bells.  I started this project thinking that it was going to be difficult as I’ve never done metal before, but I was very pleasantly surprised it wasn’t difficult at all.

Ok I have to tell you that Todd says I’m horrible at judging the difficulty level of my projects.  Part of the reason is that I’ve drawn for a bazillion years and pyrography is very similar to drawing, but I still felt that this was an easy project.  I really did, so I would love to know if you feel the same way.   Please leave a comment and let me know what you think.  

Now to answer a couple of questions I get asked frequently.  This artwork was burned on a piece of die-cut plywood I bought from a local craft store.  The piece of plywood measures 4 x 6 inches (10.2 x 15.2 cm) and it took me 3 hours to complete the artwork.   Remember that this is not a race or contest.   I only list how long it takes me because for some reason it is one of the first questions I get asked.  Truly how long it takes to create the art isn’t the important thing.  What’s important is the creation of the art, so go create some art.  It’s like magic.

Until the next blog,

Brenda

July 1, 2017

READER SUBMITTED:

art by Lee Walls

Lee Walls submitted this wonderful artwork.  The glitter glow was created by diluting Crayola glitter glue with equal parts water.  Great idea and thanks for sharing! 

 

 

Trish submitted this beautiful rendition of the Jingle Bells artwork.  The shading is great and the bells look so metallic! 

 

 

 

 

 

Brenda Fox created this little masterpiece.  This project was Brenda’s 3rd pyrography art she created and she only used a writer pen tip!  Very impressive.

 

 

I love hearing from you, so leave a comment.