I like to put borders around the edges of my artwork as I think they give the artwork a polished look that is similar to framing the work. In this short blog I will provide some tips for creating borders on your artwork. I will cover using a torch to burn in a border and discuss some things to avoid. Afterwards, I will explain I technique I recently developed to get really nice straight edges on your borders, but the method can be used to create any straight edge you need.
Now, let’s get started.
SKILL LEVEL: 1
USING A TORCH
Let’s start with the torched border method. Using a torch is a really fast way to get a very dark border.
I’m using a very inexpensive Bernzomatic Butane Torch, but any small torch will work. This mini torch works well enough, but my complaint about it is the fact that it holds very little fuel. The torch was full before starting the border around the cougar and was empty by the end of it. The border I burned was 8″ long x ½” wide (20.3 x 1.3 cm), so it wasn’t a large area.
Using a mudding knife was an idea sent to me from Trish. Trish has done quite a few pyrography projects included a number of mine, so you’ve probably seen her artwork at the bottom of several blogs like the Christmas Postcard series, Garden Thief, and more. Trish, thank you so much for sharing this tip with me and now everyone else!
I do want to point out the burn marks that are on the border. Since I knew that I would be creating a dark border, I used the border to test the heat of the pen tip before burning on the artwork.
This is the pen tip I used. It is Colwood’s MR round heel tip that I like to call a knife tip. After I burned in the line I erased over the line to remove any graphite. I burned in the line just to make it easier for me to see.
Here is how the paper towel looked after the seventh wipe. At this point is not coming away solid black like the first wipe did or near as dark at the fifth, so I stopped wiping. Another indicator that I can stop wiping is when I rubbed my finger across the border, it stays clean.
Things To Avoid
Here’s a comparison of the two borders. Border 1 was burned in with the torch flame angled away from the artwork. Border 2 had the torch flame angled toward the artwork, so the flame was able to burn some of the wood under the metal shield. Thus border 2 isn’t as clean and straight looking as border 1 is.
Here’s how the completed border ended up looking. Side 1 I angled the flame inward, so had to try and scrape way the charring. Since I was burning on plywood, the scraping didn’t go as well as I would have liked because if you look close you can tell. Side 2 is a lot better than side 1, but I didn’t have a very dark guideline to line up the metal with so I had a hard time seeing where the metal edge needed to me. When I was trying to fix a gap I missed, I didn’t line up the metal well and over burned. Sides 3 & 4 I had a dark line to line up the metal shield with and they turned out much better than 1 or 2.
Now I’d like to show you my recently discovered technique for creating the straight line I used on the Mexican Wolf. The artwork isn’t done, but this blog is about the border which is done. Please note that my method for creating a straight line can be used for any straight line you may need in your artwork. First I’m going to demo on a piece of scrap wood as I did a better set up, so it’s easier to see what I’m doing.
Use a sharp knife, I’m using an X-acto knife, and run it along the metal straight edge cutting a deep line into the wood. I would venture a guess that I’m cutting 1/8 of an inch (0.3 cm) deep into the wood.
Then use a pen tip that has a thin edge and place it down into the cut line. Pull the pen tip towards you, but don’t press down. Keep a semi-light grip on the pen and let the pen tip just follow the channel. If you exert a lot of pressure on the pen tip you can accidently veer out of the cut line.
For the burning I’m using Colwood’s Round Heel MR pen tip.
Keep in mind that any sort of thin pen tip that will fit down into the cut line will work; including the razor edge of a shader. Knife tips are just easier to use in this application, or at least I think so.
I had a camera set up to videotape the pen tip from above so you can see the angle I’m holding the pen tip at. Notice how I’m slightly angled. It would have been better to be holding it straight on, but I tend to hold my pens at a slight angle.
Here’s a composite photo of the taken from the cameras. The white letters you see on the pen tip were written by me using a white gel pen. I like to write the letters that Colwood uses to identify their pen tips because after a while I can’t remember what they are called. This way I can easily identify them.
Now I reburn over the line to darken up, but this time really angle the pen tip to make a lopsided “V” groove. Make sure to angle the pen tip AWAY from the artwork as we are working on the border side of the line.
This is the composite photo view. The reason I angle the pen tip so much on the reburn is that I’m creating an angled groove. Since I’m holding the knife tip at a steep angle the side of it is also burning the wood. That is why it is important to angle the pen tip AWAY from the artwork.
Now use the shader of your choice and burn along the edge. Since I created a lopsided “V” groove, the shader pen tip can easily follow along the edge of the burned line without crossing over it. Again I’m using a light pressure and allowing the pen tip to follow the groove.
First reason; I’m not that good with a torch and I didn’t want to ruin my straight line.
Second Reason; the board I’m burning on has a beveled edge on it and I wasn’t sure if I wanted all of the beveling dark. At the time of this blog, Todd thought the bevel should stay pale for contrast, but I’m leaning towards making it dark. Time will tell what happens.
For those of you who want to know how the beveled edge was created. That is an easy answer. Todd used a router bit on the edge before I started the project.
That’s it for this blog. As promised, it is short. Well short compared to most of my tutorial style of blogs. I hope the information I presented in this blog will be helpful in your own work.
Until the next blog,
Dec 13, 2019
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