In this blog I’m going to explain how to create this Floral Tray pyrography project. This project is very easy and suitable for any skill level. You do not need any prior burning experience for this project. Since there isn’t gradient shading involved, any wood burner will work for this project; including fixed heat solid tip wood burners. Also you can use the color of your choice so that the tray matches your home décor.
Let’s get started
SKILL LEVEL: 1
- Writing tip
- Shading tip
- Wooden Tray
- Pattern (below)
- Red Colored Pencil (Faber-Castell Goldfaber #126 Permanent Carmine)
- Pearlescent Red Watercolor
This picture is the pattern
This design called ‘simple floral drawing’ is a copyright free image I found online. The website I found it from is: getdrawings.com
When I checked this website recently, it appears to have undergone design change and doesn’t at all resemble how it did when I found the image I used.
The wooden tray I used was purchased it at a craft store a couple of years back. It is made out of birch plywood, and I forgot to take a picture of it before I decorated it. Along the top edge it measures 10 1/2 inches square (26.7 cm). The sides are 1 3/4 inches tall (4.45 cm). The base or bottom of the tray is 8 3/4 inches square (22.2 cm).
The color I’m using is Russet Red, or I think that’s what they call it. The color in question has a yellow circle around it. Here’s a link to the set on Amazon: Yasutomo
I do highly recommend using a fan of some sort. I like to use battery operated foam bladed fans that run on batteries. What I like is that they are strong enough to suck the smoke away from me, but not so strong that they will damage or hurt anything if you accidently bump into the blades. Plus it clips onto most surfaces, so it can attach it to the board close to where you’re working. Here’s a link to one on Amazon if you’re interested: Mini Fan
If you are wondering, I do not receive compensation of any sort if you buy any of the products or not. I’m just letting you know what I’m using.
STEP 1 – PREP THE WOOD
Let the board dry and then sand again.
This will produce a super smooth surface, and the smoother the surface is the better the burn results will be.
STEP 2 – TRANSFER PATTERN TO WOOD
Print off your pattern on lightweight paper (standard copier paper is perfect), coat the back of the pattern with a graphite pencil, position on the wood, and trace over the pattern.
Notice how I’m only coating the back of the pattern in the areas I need to trace from. I did not coat the entire paper.
Also I wrapped the design up and over the sides of the tray.
STEP 3 – BURNING
Burn in the trace lines using a writer pen tip. I would burn the lines to a dark brown color. Our main goal is to get the trace lines burned in so the pencil marks can be erased. Make sure to rub a pencil eraser over the area after you’re done burning in the trace lines.
Sometimes after I burned in an area I felt like it needed a little something, so I would sketch in some leaves and see how it looked. If I liked it, then it was an easy matter of burning over the pencil lines. If I didn’t like it, then I erased it.
Use caution when burning on the edge as this is the side or exposed edge of the plywood. The exposed edge means that when you burn over them you will be burning over the glue layers. The glue can be toxic when vaporized, so make sure the room is extremely well ventilated! I also highly recommend using a fan!
STEP 4 – EXPERIMENT
During my testing I burned in the flowers so they were dark brown, and then painting over them and the background with a pearlescent paint. I didn’t care for how that looked, but that’s the whole point of testing.
Once I have a color scheme I like, then I do a small test burn and apply the colors. At this point I knew I wanted the flowers red, but I was undecided on the background. The left side of the board (a), I applied a soft pink pearlescent paint. The right side I used a light blue color.
STEP 5 – COLOR PENCIL
STEP 6 – PAINT
Keep in mind that adding a glaze over the colored pencil is not something you have to do. I do it because I like the metallic sheen pearlescent paints provide. The paints are not opaque enough to provide the deep color I want, so I apply colored pencils first. Yes, I could apply multiple layers of paint to build up the color, but I absolutely hate painting so I try to keep it to a minimum.
STEP 7 – FINISH
I like the polycrylics finishes because they are durable and don’t change color much over time.
That is it. I hope you enjoyed this easy and fun project. You can use this design on picture frames, wooden boxes, etc.
Now to answer a couple of questions I get asked frequently. This artwork was burned on Birch plywood tray and it took me 4 1/2 hours to complete it. The time includes burning and coloring the design, but not applying the finish.
Until the next blog,
Aug 14, 2020
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