Pyrography – Easy and Inexpensive Portable Pen Tip Holders

In this blog I will show you have to make two different portable pen tip holders.  The great thing is that both holders are super easy to do and very inexpensive.  Both holders can be put together in a matter of minutes and cost under $10 each.

There is a video version of this tutorial available on my YouTube channel.  Just click on the image to the left to watch it.

Holder 1

For this first holder you will need an ammo box, cotton balls, and a sheet of felt.

Found this rifle ammo box at the Sportsman Warehouse.  It cost $3.99.  Here’s a link to the item:  Ammo Box 

The case measures 4” tall, 6” wide, and 2 ½” deep (10.2 x 15.2 x 6.4 cm) including the hinge. 

The top of the box states:  Case-Gard RF22

Cotton balls are available in many places. 

Target has a bag of 100 jumbo cotton balls for $0.98.  Here’s a link to the item:  Target Cotton Balls 

Last item is a piece of felt.  Michaels has felt in a wide range of colors for only $0.49 per sheet.  Here’s a link: Michaels Felt 

To make the ammo box pen tip ready, just place a cotton ball into the bottom of each square. 

With a little push, the cotton ball squishes down into the squares and stays firmly in place.

Then place the pen tip on top of the cotton.  If you want the pen tip to stick up more, then place two cotton balls in the square.

Here’s how it looks after a few pen tips were placed into the holder.  They stick up high enough so that you can see them and easily grab one.

There is a lot of head space above the pen tips, so I think if the box was inverted the pen tips would fall out.

To fix this, take the piece of felt and fold it up.

Place the folded up felt next to the lid on the box to determine how long the felt roll should be.

Cut the felt roll to size.

Then stuff the felt roll into the lid.  Make sure to put the seam side at the top, so it is touching the lid.  This will help make sure it doesn’t unravel.

You can use some double-sided tape to secure the felt to the lid.

Now the pen tips are cushioned by the felt and won’t fall out if the box gets inverted.

If needed, you can use tweezers to remove the cotton balls.

 

 

The total cost of this holder is $6.37.

 

Holder 2

For the second box, you will need a wooden box and a sheet of Styrofoam. 

I couldn’t find the exact same box I used online, but I did find a very similar one and an interesting one.  The box I used measured 4″ tall x 6″ square (10.2 x 15.2 x 15.2 cm).  

What’s great with the wooden box, is that you can put some pyrography artwork on the outside.

I found this square box on Michaels.  It’s very similar to the one I used, and costs $3.29. Here’s a link to the product: Michaels Sqr Box 

This box measures 4.1 x 3.9 x 3.4 inches (10.4 x 9.9 x 8.6 cm)

I also found this interesting little recipe box on Michaels.  I like this box because of the angle opening.  I think it would make it easier to see the pen tips.  This box costs $6.49.  Here’s a link:  Michaels Recipe Box 

This box measures 6.65″ x 4.55″ x 3.7″ (16.89 x 11.56 x 9.4 cm)

I used 1-inch-thick (2.54 cm) Styrofoam.  The Styrofoam came in a candle order, so I repurposed part of it for this demo.  I mention this because it gives you an option besides buying it.   I did find a Styrofoam sheet on Michaels website, and it was on sale for $1.00.  The regular price is $4.29.  Here’s a link: Michaels Styrofoam sheet 

Begin by measuring the inside opening of the box you are using.

Then mark the measurements on the Styrofoam.

After that use a knife to cut along the pencil lines.  I started out with an X-acto knife, but the blade wasn’t near long enough!

I borrowed a retractable boxer cutter from Todd’s shop.  I didn’t hit the record button on the video, so I don’t have an image of it cutting through the Styrofoam.

Here’s my little block of cut Styrofoam.

Do a fit test to with the cut Styrofoam.  Don’t try to force it as the Styrofoam might break.

 

Don’t be surprised if you have to trim it down a little.  I had to trim mine a couple of times.  Apparently, I’m not a very good measurer.  😊

Gently push the Styrofoam down into the bottom of the box. 

It should be a snug fit as you don’t want it moving around. 

Be aware that you can add another layer of Styrofoam so that the pen tips sit up higher.   

I quickly did created this, but I didn’t get fancy because I’ve already got a pen tip holder.  Granted it’s not portable, but at this time I don’t need a portable one.

I tried several different ways to put holes into the Styrofoam, and they didn’t work.  I won’t bore you with pictures of the failed attempts, but I did include them in the video. 

What did work was using a permanent sharpie marker.

I used the bottom of the marker to make holes in the Styrofoam.

It’s very easy to create the holes.  If you want to be precise, you can mark where the holes should go, so they are evenly spaced and in neat lines. 

This box will accommodate a lot of pen tips.  All of the box options I provided are the same size or larger than this one.

The total cost of this holder is between $4.29 – $10.78 depending on the cost of the box and whether or not the foam sheet is still on sale.

It would be a good idea to put a piece of foam over the top of the pen tips to keep them from falling out of the holes.  I’m envisioning something similar to the felt used in the first box.  I didn’t have any foam, otherwise I would have demonstrated this.

DO NOT PLACE HOT PEN TIPS INTO EITHER HOLDER!  Only place cold pen tips into the holders.  Pen tips can get very hot, and all of the materials used for these holders could melt.  That’s not worth the mess and/or possible damage to your pen tips.

IN CONCLUSION

That is it for this blog.   I hope you liked the holder ideas.  Todd came up with one of the holder ideas, and I’ll let you guess as to which one was his idea.  🙂

Brenda

Jan 18, 2022

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4 thoughts on “Pyrography – Easy and Inexpensive Portable Pen Tip Holders

  1. Hello Miss Brenda!

    I can’t thank you & Mr. Todd enough for making this video, and answering my request! These were such great ideas. Thank you so much, and it’s much appreciated.

    I’m actually in the process of making Mr. Todd’s DIY Easel, and am so excited to finish it within this week! Ive been tirelessly searching, and just couldn’t find any “affordable” easels online that met all my needs. I took your suggestion to build this (vs. purchasing one; esp. due to the cost of wood nowadays) if I already had the wood pieces on-hand. Well, I recently got lucky (perfect timing) and received a decent amount of scrap wood pieces (plywood) from a customer so, I only had to invest in the hardwares. That’s a win win in my book! I am making mine a tad bigger: 3/4” – 17.5” x 18.75” (baseboard/overall size); which includes a ledge that’s 3/4” – 1.75” x 18.75” (I wanted a 1” lip to extend out instead; I hope that’s not too much?), and the top piece of wood is 3/4” – 16.75” x 18.75”. I hope my measurements will work b/c I need the baseboard/bottom & top pieces of wood to be flushed w/ one another once the ledge is added but, don’t want to not lose any surface area from the top piece of wood. I am also adding a handle, and lock to make it portable; again, I don’t have my own workspace to do pyrography. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated b/c I am not a woodworker in the slightest bit but, I’m trying to follow Mr. Todd’s instructions precisely, with a few modifications.

    Whilst attempting the easel project, and before you posted todays video, I realized that I had enough leftover “3/4” plywood” to make Mr. Todd’s pen tip holder as well; I still plan to make 1 of the portable holders you created to see which would work best for me. I know Mr. Todd used “pine” but, would birch plywood work for this project too? I decided to continue with the wooden holder b/c it can house the “hot” pen tips while I’m burning/swapping them out vs. having a separate vessel to use whilst the tips cool off before being able to store it.

    Lastly, I was wondering if you could give me your suggestion on how to seal/varnish my project? I am burning an outline of a country onto a piece of basswood (w/ a finished edge; from craft store) then, I will carve out (very shallow) a body of water w/ a Dremel, and fill that w/ resin (pearl-blue)… what varnish would you recommend I use to seal the artwork but, not to dull the pearl finish in the resin? I hope to stain the wood as well so would you recommend I: 1st-burn the artwork, 2nd-carve the body of water, 3rd-stain the wood, 4th-add resin to carved out area(?) w/ poss. light sanding of this area, only, 5th-seal w/ suggested varnish(?)???

    I know that I’ve asked A LOT but, I truly appreciate and value your knowledge and suggestions. Any bit of help or guidance you could give me would be so extremely helpful. I’m committed to this art form but, I don’t have much help or knowledge. You’re videos have inspired me to start this journey, and it motivates me to continue. You have such a calm/gentle spirit about you that I feel welcomed on your platforms. I thank you for all your hard work in creating all these helpful videos & blogs for people like myself that love the art but, don’t have the knowledge or guidance that you provide so genuinely in ALL your videos/blogs; despite the countless YT videos/etc. online. Bless you & your family!

    1. Hi Sorphea,

      Don’t worry about following Todd’s instructions exactly. Make changes as you need them, so you have a product that works for you.

      As for the pen tip holder, not sure. If you’ve got the scrap pieces and don’t need them for anything else, then you have nothing to lose by trying.

      As for your project with resin. Todd hasn’t done much resin work, but he said that the resin should be put in before you stain. the reason is that the stain might react (color) the resin and/or interfere with the resin adhering tot he wood. The resin can always be sanding to remove any oops if the stain overlaps onto it.

      As for keeping the pearly aspect of the blue color, you have to use a semi or glossy finish. If you use a satin or matte finish it removes the pearlescent effect. I discovered this using PearlEx on a project. As for what type of finish to you, that I can’t tell you and I don’t want to give you bad information. What I would recommend is checking with the manufacturer of the resin and see what they recommend. Most manufacturers have a Q&A section on their websites that answer commonly asked questions.

      Have a great day
      B

  2. Thank you Brenda for sharing your creativity! You always have great ideas and I love the fact that you’re using styrofoam instead of tossing it in the trash.

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